Best In Show: Fave Shows ofMen’s FW 2025
Prada FW 2025 Mens
PRADA
In true nature, Prada was the show everyone couldn’t stop talking about. Right now, creative duo Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada, have been hitting every mark since their partnership. An understanding of each other but a formation of a new language.
For the latest collaboration, the Prada man is more relaxed. Wearing pajamas with boots, large blazers with no shirt, and patchwork leathers, embodying a personalized element. A resistance to fashion felt akin here with grunge classics like flannel and denim making a few appearances. The real star was outerwear and fur. Coats, shirts, and that were all made of the material. The fur being a main attraction as well felt in line with Americana thematics, especially in observation of what came through with brown leathers, fringe detailing, and ranchwear inspired sweaters. The long awaited indie sleaze revival felt confirmed by the featuring of skinny trousers, puffers, and hoodies; perfect for the Brooklynite who’s raging all night to a set in a warehouse rave. Needless to say: we are so back.
MM6
The thoroughly impressive Margiela collective leaned to a fusion of a bondage daddy and Mick Jagger for their contribution to the ongoing carousel of the runway season. Starting with simplistic (and that is said lightly) daywear and evolving into a fetishized display of motorcycle gear. Patent leather, glittering lurex suiting, and dyed denim, a wardrobe befitting a rockstar. Towards the end of the show, the apparent Tom of Finland inspo leaned more into the BDSM style seen in the 1980s. Large gloves, heavy boots, fringed moto vests, and patent leather glossed with a sensibility of erotica.
Acne Studios
Following the cowboy boot footsteps left behind at Prada, this season, Acne took more of a classic gym bro approach to the Americana aesthetic. Wide-leg tracksuits, baby tanks, and a whole lot of denim. The collection was accented with the mature American classics of pinstripe and plaid suiting. Creative director, Jonny Johansson, left some room for play. Peppering in trompe l'oeil shirts and trousers with printed ties on button downs or “jeans” with prints of denim and leather belts.
Willy Chavarria
Although these are very turbulent and unknown times for the Latino community in America, Mexican designer Chavarria is giving his people a shimmer of hope and beauty. For his 10 year anniversary show for the namesake label, Chavarria held a presentation on the Paris Fashion Week schedule for the first time. The theme of the collection was ultimately resilience, of the unbreakable spirit, and the beauty of Mexican chicano culture. An array of zoot suits, reimagined 1940s structures, ranchero attire, and Los Angeles streetwear done with a glamorous cholo aesthetic.
Some nodes were made to the fashion capital’s signature style of dress, like a male twist on the Chanel boucle jacket. Chavarria also unveiled his collaboration with sportswear giant Adidas, recreating soccer and boxing garments. As the models cascaded under the rouge lights, it seemed as though Willy was communicating not just the passion for his work, but most importantly; his people.
Dior Men’s
Maybe it’s the Shogun effect, but the latest Dior collection was cut with samurai-like precision. I haven’t always been the biggest fan of Kim Jones as of recently in lieu of his work for Fendi’s womenswear. But I was pleasantly surprised by his simple palette of black and white with touches of blush pink and beige. The garments felt like something out of a Shakesperian play set in some future we still dream of. The cinched-in waists, open bell sleeves, pink bows, and off the shoulder details gave hints of a more dandified Dior man. Especially with the ribbon masks made by master milliner, Stephen Jones. Altogether, this was a break from the masculine-leaning streetwear type that Jones has in mind.
KidSuper
What happens when Issey Miyake, Nigo, Franco Moschino, and Thom Browne all walk into a bar and start a conversation ? Well, KidSuper seems to get the gist. The exhibition of his fall collection was based on an alchemy of ideas that altogether were so eclectic but leaned on each other so well. Blade Runner-esque streetwear mixed with patchwork leather jackets. Topstitched suiting almost if they were still in construction, revamped BAPE, and works printed and stitched with director Colm Dillane’s own artwork. In its entirety, there was a comical take on fashion’s own seriousness while still giving something that was a refinery of great craftsmanship.
