Best In Show: Favorites of London Fashion Week S/S 2022
Following a hectic but prosperous debut back from the Siberia of isolation prompted by Covid, the fashion industry rejoiced upon what felt a return to a normal season. New York Fashion Week had an array of emotions varied by different designers, but most importantly a sense of celebration. Florals for spring isn’t groundbreaking but can symbolic of a full bloom of hope.
Across the pond, British designers opted for the dark and gritty but nevertheless bold. David Koma was sleek and playful while Vivienne Westwood felt like a mature game of dress up. Here are my faves Spring/Summer collections of London Fashion Week.
Vivienne Westwood
In this nautical fantasy, loosely inspired by her work in the late 90s, Vivienne embarks on a voyage that is balancing masculinity and femininity without serious conversation. Corsets with joggers, unisex pantsuits, and tomboy but still with a glamorous flair.
Supriya Lele
A still emerging brand, creative director Lele has managed to curate a look so signature and but still so modernly British. The “less is more” mentality sweeping across the country, but Lele manifests through clever cutouts and laidback but still pulled together aesthetic. Theyskens meets Karl Kani but with a minimalistic lens.
Maximilian
London seems to be the breeding ground for hot young talent. A recent graduate of the acclaimed London School of Fashion, Maximilian Davis has made a name for himself being an underground favorite of style mavens like Rihanna and Dua Lipa.
The collection lended itself to the idea of a modest and modern woman. Clever architecture in the garments hints to a girl who goes from the art gallery straight to the club.
KNWLS
Charlotte Knowles and co-creative director, Alexandre Arsenault have managed to cement themselves as a Maison with an undeniable silhouette. Known for figure hugging dresses and pants, layered with scrappy tops and bustiers.
This season they gave us a remix on this look, a nod to the Western outback through uses of leathers and gingham but the carefully tattered ensembles fashioned in. a nude palette reckoned something of a post apocalyptic chic.
David Koma
Developing somewhat of a cult following in the past year, the British designer made a splash (he literally had a water filled runway) this season with black and neon pops accompanied with a camp narrative of feathers and sequins.
The looks were accessorized with aquatic gear and the patterns and textures of shapes and fabrics gave way to something of coral reefs and plant algae. Some pieces resembling water sport gear, very Balenciaga S/S 2003.
Kaushik Velendra
Girls just want to have fun but so do the boys. The Central Saint Martins graduate presented a collection of menswear harboring on a celebration of the male physique. Chest plates carved out silk capes and brolic tailoring accentuating the shoulders.
The designer takes inspiration from British icon Alexander McQueen, so much so, he even opened his atelier in Mcqueen’s old studio. But he lends his vision to something very reminiscent of Nicola Formichitti’s tenure at Mugler. Minimal futuristic femboy I would say.
Richard Quinn
Ending on a high note, Richard Quinn has notably become the crowned prince of Gen Z UK fashion talent. Casting his designs in a motif of tacky flower patterns but still maintaining a sexy naivety through it all.
This season, Quinn took us a different direction, more feminine and airy than he ever has before. Tulle overload and embroidered boleros gave me an essence of Giambattista Valli while the rounded shoulders of coats harkened to Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga.
Overall, Richard is a man of many surprises but still a sense of comfort.
