Best In Show: Fave Shows of Menswear SS 2025

Prada S/S 2025 Menswear

Hi babes, it has been awhile. To be frank, I can’t even do the whole MIA thing because you guys know I can never shut up online so my Twitter is very incriminating proof. But I did miss this platform and sharing my musings about the current state of affairs in fashion.

The table has been set… Let’s eat, shall we ? These past couple of weeks were the avalanche of the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear shows. Prada played with visual trickery, Rick Owens took us to a wedding in space, and Lemaire had us pretending to be a lot of cooler than we actually are. We’'ll unpack my personal favorites and what trends us gents can anticipate in the coming new year.

Prada SS 2025 Menswear

PRADA

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have once again proven why they are the raining champ duo of the luxury fashion court. Their new menswear collection was framed by a white picket-fenced cul-de-sac, tying in neatly with the playful narrative of arrested development.

The opening looks consisted of an array of simple shirts and baggy 1950s style trousers. But upon careful inspection, the sloppy creases and crumbled collars were intentional, positioned by an adjustable wire throughout the garments. A featured highlight for me was the trompe l'oeil cardigans, from the distance just a simple shirt and knit combo. But actually were one continuous print akin to a childish inside joke.

There was even a bit of a J.W. Anderson flair, jumpsuits with askew zippers and leather hoodie-blazer combos giving me some memory of Loewe.

DSQUARED2

Sex, sweat, and leather. Those seem to be the pillars of Canadian powerhouse Dsquared2. The menswear choices were plenty but still in a sense slim. A fluid but contrasting mix of sportswear and biker fetish culture, the overall sense of the collection was of a hot mess nature but in the best way.

The brand’s iconic denim was on display here showing it tattered, dyed, and even laced up. Rihanna’s fave shoe from the label, the Riri sandal, seemed to be a musing for some pieces. Inspiring a clever collection of garments that were wrapped in leather and chain. An interesting innovation was prompted, using latex material found in condoms as textile presented in very strategically placed garments.

The women’s collection leaned into a more boho girl meets city girl element but a party girl nonetheless.

SACAI

Rebels don’t always need a cause but we sure do love them. Creative director of Sacai, Chitose Abe seemed to use this collection as a channeling into the classic and eternal brand of American icon James Dean. Not only was his beautiful eternal face on the tees, but also in the grooming with slicked back dark hair and square framed glasses. Cuffed jeans paired with oversized jackets giving a nod to the 50s Americana style he was known for, shirt and blouses printed with classic car motifs for added story.

Womenswear in this conversation had a more Victorian era with puffed sleeves being a constant variable, a possible nod to the steampunk beauty of ‘Poor Things’. The collection moved into a tone of browns and bocks towards the end, with pockets and more structured detail. Possibly prompting a take on the military wear of the era, commenting on the evolution of adulthood and how we can lose our selves and imagination through conformity.

Rick Owens

Do we ever know where Sir Rick will take us ? Not really, but often it’s going to be into the future. A future that knows no binary, creed, or gender. His menswear feature was a beautiful amorphous stream of white, with his resident muse Tyrone Dylan opening the show and followed by a tribe of Rick aliens dressed all in matching ivory flowing robes.

Each tribe was dressed in an interpretation of something akin to tribal wear, a very Mad Max-esque type of display. Monks in hooded jackets, bikers hiding from the elements under cream leather, nuns in gilded cages, and space cadets all foraging this wasteland ruled by the towering Mr. Owens. Of course his design signatures were present, the pointed devil shoulders and the punk staple of the platform heel. The show itself being somewhat of an art installation, a parable of the human identity, the white symbolic of us all being the same in birth and in death.

Acne Studios

A brand that has recently caught my eye is surprisingly Acne Studios. Johnny Johansson has been giving us viral and obscure works, his menswear no exception. A cocktail of the masculine and feminine, the Acne world is androgynous and free flowing, cropped leather jackets and ultra-mini dresses, accentuated with a grungy nuance of the Eastern European underground.

Jorgen was inspired by superheroes for this collection and you see it mostly in the tone, the idea of costume being a vessel for a truer identity. You see influences of Tyler Durden from Fight Club invoking a reckless and unpredictable man, but you dive deeper and notice a reminiscence of Neo from The Matrix. Streamlined tailored suits and leather trenches. Not a man of tomorrow, but something unknown.

The Row

If you know me, you know I’m quite the cinephile. Upon reviewing The Row’s menswear/womenswear hybrid collection, I couldn’t stop thinking of Clive Owen in the dystopian cult classic, Children of Men. His simple tee and trousers, paired with a loose blazer and a pair of flip flops may not be the most appropriate doomsday ensemble but it is impressively chic. That disheveled look was the uniform standard set by the beloved Olsen twins this time around.

The men’s side leaned into the uncomplicated with suits and jeans and loose tees. The women’s had a more androgynous vibe, tartan and denim highlighting the company’s signature of a modern woman wearing her boyfriend’s favorite clothes. He makes art, she sells it. He’s a tech entrepreneur, she refines it. Just like the twins, this season was a commentary on duality, both within and outside of us

Dolce & Gabbana

Just thinking of this collection I can imagine myself driving down the Amalfi coast with a skinny cigarette in my hand and a beautiful tanned gentleman whisking me away for the weekend.

The duo that have been the mascots of Italian living gave another breathtaking menswear gallery, this time toying with the relaxed side of their heritage. The Dolce man this season is dancing in the streets with high and roomy trousers, letting the sun warm his skin in lace appliqué tops. There was a surprising elemental twist, using the common wicker chair as material for jackets and sweaters. Being a Miami native, I felt some Latin flair in the styling, the large lapels and shirt collars, taking me back to the disco infused world of Havana. But to parallel this, the black and white silhouettes towards the end of the show pull me back to the silver screen era of the 40s.